Sunday, October 21, 2018

My Magic Circle for Right Handed Hookers

My Magic Circle 
for Right Handed Hookers
BY: James Lee Kelley


Start with the end of yarn on the left as shown in picture, wrap the yarn over the top of your three fingers and come back up under the bottom.

 
As shown in this picture

Now do a second wrap like the first.
Now you will bring the yarn over to back of hand and put the end towards your knuckles under your little finger.

As shown in this picture.
By doing two wraps instead of one, the chance of the circle coming undone after the piece is finished is greatly reduced.
Insert your hook as shown and draw up a loop from the skein end that you previously tucked under your little finger.
It will look like this.
Now you will shift the loops off of the index finger as shown in this picture.

To begin a SC round you will chain one now.
To begin a DC round as I am doing, you will chain 2.



Now proceed to do your DC stitches into the ring until you are ready to close the ring.
Once you have the correct number of DCs in the ring, pull the tail gently until you see which ring of the two is closing. Do NOT close the ring completely.

You will see one ring shrinking like pictured here.

Grab the littler of the two rings and tighten the other ring by pulling it.
Now pull the tail of yarn again and close the ring tightly.
As shown in this picture, the Magic Circle with two wraps is now closed.

Now slip stitch into your beginning stitch as the instructions or pattern stated.
You now have a completed two wrap Magic Circle and the first round of DC stitches  

Wednesday, November 22, 2017

My Magic Circle for Left Handed Hookers


BY: James Lee Kelley

Start with the end of yarn on the right as shown in picture, wrap the yarn over the top of your three fingers and come back up under the bottom.
As shown in this picture. 

Now do a second wrap like the first.

Now you will bring the yarn over to back of hand and put the end towards your knuckles under your little finger. 
As shown in this picture. 

By doing two wraps instead of one, the chance of the circle coming undone after the piece is finished is greatly reduced.


Insert your hook as shown and draw up a loop from the skein end that you previously tucked under your little finger. 


It will look like this.

Now you will shift the loops off of the index finger as shown in this picture.

To begin a SC round you will chain one now. 

To begin a DC round as I am doing, you will chain 2. 

Now proceed to do your DC stitches into the ring until you are ready to close the ring.

Once you have the correct number of DCs in the ring, pull the tail gently until you see which ring of the two is closing. Do NOT close the ring completely.

You will see one ring shrinking like pictured here.

Grab the littler of the two rings and tighten the other ring by pulling it. 

Now pull the tail of yarn again and close the ring tightly.

As shown in this picture, the Magic Circle with two wraps is now closed. 

Now slip stitch into your beginning stitch as the instructions or pattern stated. 

You now have a completed two wrap Magic Circle and the first round of DC stitches  


Monday, November 7, 2016

RUSSIAN JOINING at COLOR Changes

By James Lee Kelley

I am now finished with my first color on this hat and am ready to join in my next color, as this picture shows.
I will now mark the yarn so I will know where my join needs to be so the color change will take place right where the arrow is pointing in this pic.
I use a China Marker Pencil as it wipes off and/or washes out nicely. I also use colored fabric marking pencils. I marked my yarn (it is a little hard to see in this pic however)
After marking the join spot, I undo two to three stitches. You can see the mark on the yarn better here after I have undone two stitches.
Now I am ready to begin doing the Russian Join. In this picture you will see how I entered the needle almost in the middle of my mark.
I am now showing the join almost completed in this pic. You can see the mark on the yarn and all I have to do is pull the ends and lock the join and trim the ends.

Now after doing a few stitches you can see how the color change join looks.
The best part is NO ENDS to weave in after completion.
After two rows the Color Change Join looks Nice and Clean to me, how about to you?


Saturday, January 2, 2016

Adult Crochet Post Hat

Designed and Written By
James Lee Kelley



MATERIALS:
Approximately 2 to 3 ozs each of two colors of Red Heart with Love Yarn
HOOK Size USKJ-10.5/6.50mm
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends.
Scissors

STITCHES & Abbreviations Used:
MAGIC CIRCLE
CHAIN (CH)
SINGLE CROCHET (SC)
DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)
SLIP STITCH (SL ST)
BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET (BPDC)
FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET (FPDC)

RND 1 – Magic Circle, Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), 13 DC in the Magic Circle. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 13 DC)

RND 2 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work two (2) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work two (2) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 26 Stitches)

RND 3 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC next stitch, * work two (2) DC stitch, work one (1) DC next stitch*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 39 Stitches)

RND 4 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 39 Stitches)

RND 5 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next two (2) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in each of next two (2) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 52 Stitches)

RND 6 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 52 Stitches)

RND 7 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next three (3) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in each of next three (3) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around until last FOUR stitches, 1 dc in each of those last four sts. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 8 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 9 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 10 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 11 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 12 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 13 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 64 Stitches) 

RND 14 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 15 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 16 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 17 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 64 Stitches) 

RND 18 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 64 Stitches)

RND 19 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 64 Stitches) 

RND 20 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in.  (Total 64 Stitches)


RND 21 – Ch1 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) SC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) SC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in the of first SC. (Total 60 Stitches)

Fasten Off and Weave in Ends. 

Friday, July 31, 2015

Weaving in Ends - Tight and Good


By: James Lee Kelley


When I need to weave in my ends on a project,
                      
I do NOT grab a Yarn Needle.

I instead grab one of these type needles

(Dritz brand Yarn Darners - size 14 & 18)



Then I grab a stiff Bread tie wire or a Wire that was holding a cord when I bought something.

These are coated and I take and pinch the coating between my finger and my thumbnail and strip about ½" to ¾" off one end and I bend the bare wire into a U shape to form a hook like.

I then fold over the other end and make like an eye to hold my newly formed Needle Threader with.

WHY Go through all this trouble, you ask.

Because now I can go through the actual yarn fibers (like through the center of the yarn) instead of weaving the ends in through the stitches themselves.

This makes them stay longer as they are tighter and look a little better to me.

Here is a picture of my Yarn Threader stuck through the eye of a Yarn Darner needle.



You just catch the yarn in the hook and pull it through the needle eye. 

(You can also by threaders at Walmart or most stores that sell needles)

The one pictured works on yarn thicknesses up to but not including Bulky weight.

Let me know what you think of this by leaving me a comment.