Thursday, August 28, 2014

My Magic Circle

My Magic Circle
BY: James Lee Kelley

Start with the end of yarn on the left as shown in picture, wrap the yarn over the top of your three fingers and come back up under the bottom.





 As shown in this picture. 







Now do a second wrap like the first.











Now you will bring the yarn over to back of hand and put the end towards your knuckles under your little finger.
As shown in this picture. 

By doing two wraps instead of one, the chance of the circle coming undone after the piece is finished is greatly reduced.


Insert your hook as shown and draw up a loop from the skein end that you previously tucked under your little finger.















It will look like this.








Now you will shift the loops off of the index finger as shown in this picture.












To begin a SC round you will chain one now.














To begin a DC round as I am doing, you will chain 2.













Now proceed to do your DC stitches into the ring until you are ready to close the ring.











Once you have the correct number of DCs in the ring, pull the tail gently until you see which ring of the two is closing. Do NOT close the ring completely.








You will see one ring shrinking like pictured here.












Grab the littler of the two rings and tighten the other ring by pulling it.













Now pull the tail of yarn again and close the ring tightly.












As shown in this picture, the Magic Circle with two wraps is now closed.













Now slip stitch into your beginning stitch as the instructions or pattern stated.












You now have a completed two wrap Magic Circle and the first round of DC stitches complete.

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Easter Egg Dishcloth

Designed and written by: James Lee Kelley


Finished Dishcloth Measures 7½” wide by 8½” long.

MATERIALS:
Cotton Yarn [The more colorful, the better] (will make one double layered Egg)
H – Hook

INSTRUCTIONS:
Rnd 1 - Magic Circle - ch 1, 10 hdc in magic circle,  join with sl st to first hdc (10sts)
Rnd 2 - ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (20sts)
Rnd 3 - ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat between the *s FOUR (4) times, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 tr in next st, 1 tr in next st, 2 tr in next st, 1 tr in next st, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, join with sl st to first hdc (30sts)
Rnd 4 - ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat between the *s around, join with sl st to first hdc (45sts)
Rnd 5 - ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts* repeat between the *s around, join with sl st to first hdc (60sts)
Rnd 6 - ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (60sts)
Rnd 7 - ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 sts* repeat between the *s around, join with sl st to first hdc (90sts)
Rnd 8 - ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc (90sts)
Finish off and weave in the ends.


You now have an Easter Egg dishcloth.

Make two of these and stitch them together to make an Easter Egg Pot Holder/Hot Pad.

Easter Egg Coasters

Designed and written by: James Lee Kelley


Finished Coasters are 3½” wide by 4” long.

MATERIALS:
Cotton Yarn [The more colorful, the better]
H – Hook

INSTRUCTIONS:
Rnd 1 - Magic Circle - ch 1, 10 hdc in magic circle,  join with sl st to first hdc (10sts)
Rnd 2 - ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, join with sl st to first hdc (20sts)
Rnd 3 - ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat between the *s FOUR (4) times, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 2 tr in next st, 1 tr in next st, 2 tr in next st, 1 tr in next st, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, join with sl st to first hdc (30sts)
Rnd 4 - ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st* repeat between the *s around, join with sl st to first hdc (45sts)
Finish off and weave in the ends.


 You now have an Easter Egg Coaster.

Sunday, December 29, 2013

FLAT TOP ROLLED BRIM HAT

Designed and Written by: James Lee Kelley

Materials:
H – Hook
Yarn Needle
Caron Simply Soft Yarn (approximately 3 ounces)
Scissors

This Pattern Uses U.S. American Terminology
TERMINOLOGY:
Ch = chain
Sc = Single Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
MC = Magic Circle
Sl St = Slip Stitch

TOP:
Begin with a MC.
RND – 1: Ch1 and then do 8 sc into the Magic Circle. Join to first sc with a sl st. (8sc)
RND – 2: Ch1 and then 2 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (16sc)
RND – 3: Ch1 and then 2sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, * 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, * Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (24sc)
RND – 4: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (24sc)
RND – 5: Ch1 and then 2sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, * 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, * Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (36sc)
RND – 6: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (36sc)
RND – 7: Ch1 and then 2sc in same st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, * 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, * Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (48sc)
RND – 8: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (48sc)
RND – 9: Ch1 and then 2sc in same st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, * 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, * Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (60sc)
RND – 10: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (60sc)
RND – 11: Ch1 and then sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, * 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts,* Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (72sc)
RND – 12: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (72sc)
RND – 13: Ch1 and then sc in same st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, * 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st,* Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (84sc)
RND – 14: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (84sc)
RND – 15: Ch1 and then 2sc in same st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, * 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, * Repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (96sc)
RND – 16: Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (96sc)
RND – 17: Ch1, sc in back loop of same st as joining in, sc in back loop of each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (96sc)
RND – 18 thru 35: [WORKING IN BOTH LOOPS] Ch1 and then 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (96sc)
RND – 36: Ch1, [WORKING IN BACK LOOPS ONLY!]turn. 2sc in first st, 1sc in next 2 sts * 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2 sts * repeat between the *s around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (128sc)
RND – 37 thru 40: Ch1, [WORKING IN BOTH LOOPS] 1sc in same st as joining, 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (128sc)
RND – 41: Ch1, [WORKING IN BACK LOOPS ONLY!] 1sc in each st around.
Join to first sc with a sl st. (128sc)
RND – 42 thru 46: Ch1, [WORKING IN BOTH LOOPS] 1sc in same st as joining, 1sc in each st around. Join to first sc with a sl st. (128sc)
RND – 41:Sl st in each st around. Fasten Off. Weave in ends.

Large X Decoration Trim around Hat:
I used a yarn needle and the same yarn as the hat.
I started so the top of my Xs would be down 5 rows from the top and each leg of the X was in the fourth hole to right/left and above/below the center of the X.


I came up for my first X in the center hole, then went down where the lower right leg would end, then came back up through center and went down in same place (all the legs of the Xs are done twice to make it thicker) – then come up through center hole again and do right upper leg, then up in center and do left lower leg, then up in center and do left upper leg, then come up in center of next X position and repeat around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Friday, November 29, 2013

Glori-Jam Hat

Designed and Written by:
Gloria Clayton & James Lee Kelley


MATERIALS:
J – Hook for crown of hat
H – Hook for trim and bill of hat
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn
Scissors
Yarn Needle

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS USED:
Bpdc = Back Post Double Crochet
Ch = Chain
Dc = Double Crochet
Fpdc = Front Post Double Crochet
MC = Magic Circle
Sc = Single Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch

STITCH INSTRUCTIONS:

BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET (bpdc)
Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from back to front between the posts of the first and second double crochet in the row below, and then from front to back again between the posts of the second and third stitches.
The hook should now be positioned horizontally in front of the double crochet that you’re working around.

Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch.
You now have 3 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.
You've made one complete back post double crochet (BPdc).

FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET (fpdc)
Yarn over (yo) and insert your hook from front to back between the posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below, and then from back to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches.
The hook should now be positioned horizontally behind the double crochet that you’re working around.

Yarn over and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch.
You now have 3 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice.
One front post double crochet (FPdc) is complete.

 CROWN INSTRUCTIONS: Use J - Hook

RND 1 – Magic Circle, Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), 12 DC in the Magic Circle. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 12 DC)
RND 2 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work two (2) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work two (2) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 24 Stitches)
RND 3 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC next stitch, * work two (2) DC stitch, work one (1) DC next stitch*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 36 Stitches)
RND 4 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 36 Stitches)
RND 5 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next two (2) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in each of next two (2) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 48 Stitches)
RND 6 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 48 Stitches)
RND 7 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch),  Work two (2) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next three (3) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in each of next three (3) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches)
RND 8 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 60 Stitches)
RND 9 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches)
RND 10 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. (Total 60 Stitches)
RND 11 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches)  

RND 12 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 60 Stitches)

TRIM INSTRUCTIONS: Use a H - HOOK

Behind your 2 loops there is a horizontal bar, to make rounds 2 through 5 you will be working in this bar NOT in either front or back loop but behind them.  After the 2nd row you will note the loops are pushed together to make a knit look.  This is the STOCKINETTE Stitch and more info about it can be found here
http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2012/11/crochet-stockinette.html


Rnd 1:  Ch 1, hdc in same st as you joined in and 1 hdc in each st around, join with sl st in first hdc (60 hdc)

Rnd 2 through 5:  Ch1, hdc in back bar in same st as you joined in, hdc in back bar of each st around, (60 hdc)

Rnd 6: sl st in back bar of each st around (60 sl sts)

Bill INSTRUCTIONS: Use a H - HOOK

Use TWO Strands of Yarn held together for the Bill.

Row 1:  Sl st in next st, sc in next 22 sts, sl st, turn.

Row 2:  Sl st in first sc , 1sc in next st, * 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st*  sc,  and sl st in last st, turn.

Row 3:  Sl st in first sc, 1 sc in each sc across, sl st in last sc. turn.

Row 4:  Repeat row 3.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach your yarn to seam, sl st all the way around hat and bill.

PUFF FLOWER INSTRUCTIONS: Use a J - HOOK

Puff Stitch:  Ch 3, yo, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, repeat 2 more times in same st, yo place hook in next st and draw up a loop 3 times, yo and draw hook through all loops on your hook, ch 3, sl st in same st. Sl st in next st. 1 puff made.

With J hook make a magic circle and ch 1.

Rnd 1:  Make 12 scs in magic circle, join with a sl st to beginning sc, pull tail to close and weave in short end.

Petals- Make 6 puff stitches and fasten off leaving a long tail to finish center of flower.

Thread long tail into a tapestry needle, sew back and forth across center of flower until a smooth surface is achieved. This is called a satin stitch. For more info you can go here

Place your flower on the seam at brim of hat and take long stitches at the base of your petals to define each petal and attach the flower to your hat.
Pull to back and finish off. Weave in end and cut yarn.

Here is a youtube video of a puff stitch flower, however she does not sl st into the beg and end of each petal as I do.  I think it gives a more defined look to your flower.  But can give you a base!